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Home of the original "One Flat
Rate... One Trained Dog,
Gun Dog Training Program"
Handle: For example your dog is hunting off too much in one direction or the other, you can either tweet your whistle, or if you have a remote beeper (one that can be turned on and off at the transmitter) turn it on. When your dog turns your direction let off and your dog will swing back to the front of you.
This comes in handy on windy days or when in dense cover. It also allows handling your dog and holding a conversation with a hunting buddy simultaneously.
After your dog swings back in front of you, if you want him to come to you, now is the time to call him. This method replaces the hollering method. In short you will be able to use the whistle or beeper interchangeably to handle your dog.
Whoa: I do not use the command whoa. Whoa is too short and harsh for a soft dog plus it eliminates naming your dog Bo, Joe, Moe, or Crow as they sound too much alike. I use the command whoop. At the command "whoop," your dog will stop and most stop with style. This comes in handy when beginning backing training. If your dog associates whoa with being bad he may tuck his tail on this command. When you start whoaing your dog to back he may stand with his tail tucked instead of backing with style. Your dog will release off the whoa command with two short whistle blasts or a touch on the back of his head or his right side.
Point: Your dog will point and hold game until you flush the bird. He will not jump in with you to help flush. In my program your dog will hold birds because he wants to not because he has to. The dog that is trained to hold birds or he will get in trouble is the dog that flushes birds when he thinks you are not looking. I teach the dog to hold birds and I will catch the bird for him which is his motivation to point in the first place. The point in the wild is the pause before the pounce. I teach your dog to wait on me and we will get the bird caught. A partnership not a dictator/peasant relationship.
Bonus: Most dogs also leave backing an electronic dog silhouette on their own. This is no extra charge. So at the end of Phase I your dog will handle to the whistle or beep, come here, whoa, hold birds, and most will also back an electronic backing dummy.
The Flat Rate is $900.00
Backing: I encourage most of my customers to finish their dogs backing training on their own. Generally if you have a dog that has an average amount of point in him he will back easily. I have set the table for you in phase I of my program. Most dogs associate another dog on point with the backing silhouette. A few times of the whoop command with another dog on point and you will have a dog that will back on sight. For those of you who have a dog that just does not want to back, and there are some, I offer a 30-day extensive backing program.
Flat rate $500.
Force Broke to Retrieve: If your young dog does not retrieve to hand, you should have him force broke to retrieve. It is unacceptable behavior for your dog to leave a bird anywhere except your hand. Some dogs are mentally capable of handling this program before their first bird season; others are better off waiting until after their first season. I can determine this for you.
Flat rate $900.
Special Note: You will need to review my kennel rules before sending your dog to me. These rules allow me to get the most out of your dog while he is here. Advanced pen reservations and a $100 non refundable deposit are required.
Quality Bird DogsTraining | Kennel Rule | Stud Dogs
